“Between a gentleman’s club and a store,” as described by CEO Antoine Arnault, French luxury menswear house of Berluti inaugurated last week its new flagship store in Paris at 14 Rue de Sèvres. Berluti’s new Parisian store is not only the largest in the world (over 450 sqm) but also the first to feature the Grande Mesure service and an entire floor dedicated to its bespoke service.
Berluti’s store in Paris marks its launch into bespoke tailoring, following the acquisition last year of Arnys, a landmark Parisian tailor. Designed by architect Gwenaël Nicolas, the store blends elements telegraphing Berluti’s roots including streaky brown leather walls and parquet ceilings — with original furnishings from Arnys, such as the leather-topped Louis XV desk. Contemporary touches include furnishings by Osvaldo Borsani and Franco-Portuguese design duo Oitoemponto.
Founded in 1933 and best known for its handmade suits and tab-collared Forestière jacket, Arnys dresseed the likes of Pablo Picasso, Ernest Hemingway, Francois Mitterand, Pierre Bergé and François-Henri Pinault (owner of rival group, Kering). It was a magnet for politicians and intellectuals due to its proximity to government offices and the influential pros.
In early December, Berluti is slated to open a 5,400-square-foot unit at 9 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. It has a third Paris location on the Rue Marbeuf.
Berluti has been opening new or refurbished locations in Tokyo, Hong Kong, Shanghai and London. Upcoming store openings include Milan, Costa Mesa, CA, Bergdorf Goodman and Madison Avenue in New York. Berluti aims to directly operated 45 stores by the end of 2014.
adapted from WWD / photos Xavier Granet
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