British designer Daniel Lee staged this week in Milan his second runway show for Kering Group troubled Bottega Veneta. Lee has had a fast forward approach to completely revive the house’s woven leather (intreccio / intrecciato) into once again a desirable luxury item.
For Milan, Lee not only conducted a very well balanced enigmatic teasing campaign but has also built a giant set inside the Palazzo del Senato, once the home of the offices of the Habsburg Austrian Empire when it ruled over the Duchy of Milan in the late 18th century. One of the key visual statements was the series of woven one-meter leather bands under the transparent and lit plexiglass catwalk.
The limitation of the intrecciato motive which used to be included in every single ready to wear item and restricting it to hanbags was a recipe for success.
The balance between the body mulle knitwear to oversized padded one shoulder dresses was yet another WOW factor. A deep feel of the early 90s was also evident in the accessorised elements, including colour and fabric mix. Barely a print in sight, except for a naughty blue monkey reaching for a pineapple, amid a somber color palette with just hints of orange, tapioca and lots of punchy Persian blue.
In a coed show, the menswear message was all about oversized pieces and volume. Cabans, cross-over blazers and lots of shorts that all looked two sizes too large for the models. Beyond the weirdness factor, several gigantic leather coats at the finale were meant to suggest ‘Je m’enfou’ (‘I don’t care’)
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