Brioni has launches a new luxury women’s capsule called Brioni La Donna. The collection, designed by Brioni’s creative director Norbert Stumpfl, features a tight collection of tailored wardrobe separates with the same fabrics, silhouettes and handmade construction as the men’s collection, but cut for a female form. The result is a classic assortment of upscale essentials suitable for both day and evening.
In a preview in New York on Wednesday, Stumpfl said he drew on Brioni’s 75-year history in fine men’s wear tailoring when conceptualizing La Donna. “My role is to keep the tailoring tradition alive,” he said, adding that it takes some 23 hours for the tailors at Brioni to create a jacket and 20 minutes to make a buttonhole. “And we do it on ready-to-wear,” he said.
Stumpfl created cashmere drawstring pajama trousers with an elastic waist to be worn with a tailored jacket and silk button-down shirt; a shawl-collar belted cashmere coat, and a three-button overcoat in a classic shape that will never go out of style. He paired that with a navy shirt and jacket.
For summer, he designed a floor-length tuxedo coat with a white lining that is visible when the woman is walking, and an unlined silk coat with matching trousers created on a 70-centimeter vintage loom for a distinct aesthetic. Other pieces include a linen and silk suit that “crumples” a bit when wearing it, but is still “luxurious,” he said, as well as a lightweight trench coat, a workwear-inspired shirt with boxy trousers, a shirtdress and a baby blue formal jacket with matching pants. ht enough to be transparent.
The La Donna capsule collection will be available at select Brioni stores through the made-to-order service, allowing women the chance to select the fabrics and details and have the garments tailored for the proper fit. Starting in October, Net-a-porter will have the retail exclusive for the product for one year, Stumpfl said.
Stumpfl, who was named creative director of Brioni four years ago, was formerly head of design at Berluti. A Central Saint Martins alum, he freelanced for Louis Vuitton and Adidas in 2016 and 2017; was men’s head designer at Balenciaga from May 2014 to June 2016, and men’s designer at Lanvin for almost nine years until May 2014. Prices for pieces in the collection start at $820.
Brioni is fully owned by Kering
Brioni new La Donna women’s collection
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