Bulgari has been breaking and setting records in ultra-thin watchmaking since 2014, when it launched the Octo Finissimo Ultra-Thin Tourbillon, and it has just announced its newest record-breaker. The Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar is only 5.80mm thick overall – and its movement, the caliber BVL 305, is only 2.75mm thick.
The watch is being launched in a titanium case – the customary metal for Octo Finissimo watches – and in platinum as well. This is another first – Bulgari has never made an Octo Finissimo case in platinum before.
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo is now the thinnest perpetual calendar on the market in absolute terms, as well as the thinnest with a micro-rotor movement; the Audemars Piguet one can still boast that it is the thinnest full-rotor perpetual.
Another interesting feature of the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar is that it uses a retrograde date display. The retrograde date display feels a much better fit overall for the Octo Finissimo case.
Part of the reason Bulgari hasn’t used platinum before in an Octo Finissimo watch is that the design is a pretty modern one – titanium and carbon fiber match well with it, and it was not until fairly recently that an Octo Finissimo automatic came with a polished steel case. The platinum case for the Octo Finissimo Perpetual is all the more remarkable thanks to the fact that platinum is much tougher than gold or steel to machine
The new introduction, which makes Bulgari’s sixth world record in ultra-thin watchmaking in seven years. The rest of the industry has not exactly ceded the category to Bulgari, but it’s sure starting to look that way. The achievement is no less remarkable for being obviously premeditated and extremely carefully thought out
The Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Titanium, ref. 103200: case, sandblasted titanium, 40mm x 5.80mm; sandblasted titanium crown with ceramic insert; sandblasted titanium dial. Water resistance, 30 meters.
The Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Titanium, ref. 103463: Satin-brushed/Polished platinum case, 40mm diameter, 5.80mm thick, white-gold crown, transparent caseback; water-resistant to 30m. Blue lacquered dial
Movement: both watches, the automatic in-house caliber BVL 305, 2.75mm thick, indication of hours, minutes, retrograde date, day, month, and retrograde leap year; 60-hour power reserve.
Pricing: in titanium with titanium bracelet, $59,000; in platinum, with blue alligator strap and matching platinum pin buckle, $89,000
BVLGARI is fully owned by LVMH
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