Some argue that quite a few top luxury watch brands have been dormant these two years. What drives the incredible vibe at Bvlgari Watches?
People say that constraints creates genius. I would say that the fact that we have clearly identified and communicated our playing field, that is to say, the territory of our horological expression is unleashing our creativity.
We aim at expressing our jeweller identity and Italian culture into the most beautiful objects that give time. This appeal to embellish time in all possible ways: architectural constructions in symbiosis with horological innovation, gem setting and jeweler art, chiming watches that enchant anyone who listen to them
Obviously, the technical excellence and exceptional engagement of the teams is making the difference.

Bvlgari High Jewellery timepieces 2021
How would you define the consumer of Bvlgari watches? Has the consumer profile changed? If yes, has this been influencing your product development?
Bvlgari celebrates the beauty of life. The philosophy of the Maison is extraordinary positive, joyful and creative.
Bvlgari clients understand, appreciate and share this philosophy. They are attracted by the boldness of the creativity, the originality of the creation, in the design or the choice of colors and precious stones.
With the growing success of the Maison in watches, our designs have become more classic in a way, and led to a wider recognition by a different population. Today, we can meet watch aficionados in our boutiques as well as young client wishing to buy a “valeur sure” like the BB watch.
Tastes change. The “Air du Temps” happens for all of us. We are also very curious to understand and integrate new technologies allowing for new creativities. Our studio integrates those factors: they are trend seekers as well as trend setters. But they MUST remain true to our identity, to the famous natural “playing field”.
The recent revamping of the BB classic, and the reintroduction of BB Aluminium are good examples of this approach.
The Bvlgari Bvlgari collection has a long heritage of almost 50 years, as it was born from the hands of Gianni Bulgari and Gerald Genta. The studio beautifully refined the lines, sharpened the case and improved the materials, to offer a superb and modernized expression of this classic.

Bvlgari ‘Bvlgari Bvlgari’ collection 2021
Winning the ‘Oscars’ of watches (GPHG) was an exceptional recognition?
Absolutely. This is an award that really means something, it is the best signal and encouragement that our peers could send to us.
It comes to a very important moment when the Octo Finissimo line is no longer an outsider but a must-have piece for the watch lovers.
The launch of the Perpetual Calendar in April was a challenge: imagine how to fit more than 400 components in 2,75mm for the sovereign complication is normally not feasible. We did it.
But more than a reward of the work done for the Perpetual Calendar, it is for the whole world record saga. 7 in a row! We are educated to think thinner.
You cannot imagine the emotion and pride of our teams after the reception of the award.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar 2021
Do you have a clear process of product development based on
– trends
– price
– certain geographical area / country
We have a clear development process. It always starts from the re-assessment of our identity, culture and vision. With the definition of the product briefing come certain considerations with regards to the market and the price is an important element, like some specificities linked to the products. Other contingent elements are bearing a minimal importance in the development process.
Like in fashion, a few watches brands rely on consumers who collect certain products which have a guaranteed increase in price over time. What is your take?
You are absolutely right. Resale value is one element that, for a certain fringe of customers, is considered when they make their decision to buy or not.
It is true for jewelry and watches. The second hand market is another channel that has become prominent in the last few years. Auction houses and vintage dealers play a key role, as well as pre-owned dedicated websites.
We are very well aware of this new factor in the global equation and are confident that with amazing historical pieces like the Serpenti heritage from the 60s, chiming watches inherited from the mastery of Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth, and the new-comer that is Octo Finissimo, but also with a strict control of its production, Bulgari Horlogerie is proposing products with a significant potential for appreciation.

Bvlgari Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon 2021
What has been your approach to discovering / nurturing and motivating talent?
The approach is, here again, cultural. We believe in people. This means that we trust their talents and contributions. As such, we offer important positions to young managers, we support internal promotions, and we open positions to new graduates.
This is facilitated by our expansion and our need to strengthen our structures.
In certain emerging markets wealthy people would purchase a watch brand purely for how recognisable is the shape from a distance – to show off?
It is very often said that a watch is men’s jewel. In case of Bvlgari’s Octo and Octo finissimo, they are highly recognizable on the wrist. It is a sign of sophistication, refinement, good taste and a statement like the shape of your suit or the choice of your car.
Same for ladies watches. Wearing a Serpenti is a daring choice, unconventional and expressing a certain freedom of thinking.
Our watches are not standard and quiet. They say something of you.
To me it is not a matter of “show off” but a matter of making a choice within a large selection of very remarkable watch brands and this means something!

Bvlgari Serpenti Spiga 2021
Although you could buy certain components ready from socialist suppliers, you strive to have maximum control by controlling the entire manufacturing process. How important is this?
Nowadays, the watch market is undergoing very important trends : quest for sustainability, requirements on systematic tracking of components, expansion of the requirements related to Swiss made signature, disappearance of some strategic suppliers, purchased by competitors, or closing for various reasons.
If we want to sustain our development, we must guarantee our industrial independence, our technical mastery (basis of our technical innovation).
How has the marketing / sales / communications of your watches changed?
My strong belief is that the product strategy is the heart of the whole process. The brand values and vision find their translation in this strategy. It starts with marketing and infuses design, development, production, down to communication tools and sales ceremony.
Today, time to market has shorten so much that we have to align as much as possible on-shelf date to announcements.
In the same time, the consistency of the long term vision is dramatically important to guarantee the clarity of our communication and positioning.
So we are balancing between extreme reactivity and agility on one hand and strategic stability on the other hand. It is some kind of continuous intellectual gymnastics.
To what extent wholesale is still relevant for your watches? What about pieces that may be only available at your mono-brand stores?
Wholesale and retail add to each other. The watch market is extremely mature and competitive. 90% of the watches are sold under brand labels that the customers look for. Which is not the case for jewels. This is why wholesale is so relevant.
We call the wholesalers our business partners, because they are really our partners.
Together with our partners from the press, retailers offer a stage for customers to compare the pieces of multiple brands in flesh.
At the same time, in our boutiques, the customers can experience the full extent of the brand and see all the collections.
It is somewhat two different ways to buy our pieces, depending on what your priority, as a customer, is.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo, winner of GPHG 2021
What novelties shall we be expecting in 2022?
In terms of collections, you can expect 2 major news on our signature lines, Serpenti and Octo Finissimo. We will celebrate the 10th anniversary of Octo, so you can expect some things here.
In terms of watchmaking achievement, you will see that we continue to explore the Art of Miniaturization in different dimensions, a prowess that few watch brands can claim.
Stay tuned!

Antoine Pin, Head of Bvlgari Watches
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