In the glow of the twilight, the first models walked out on the runway at a swift pace, weaving in between palm trees, magnolias, and lemon trees, along low, well trimmed hedges, before ending their marathon on a gentle lawn slope, then disappearing into a grove.
The Givenchy man is slender and sporty, perfectly equipped for an exercise such as this. No classic shoes for him but instead oversized sneakers, ranger’s boots, or white sneakers to give him a sporty attitude, complete with aviator sunglasses and thick chains worn at the belt.
He is agile in anorak-vests made from ultra-light and bright metallic Korean textiles. He is also delicately enveloped in parachute windbreakers. Dark hued nylon velvet parkas, long and shiny and a deep bottom-of-the-sea blue, almost resembled a liquid and were particularly desirable.
Clare Waight Keller worked on the collection’s trousers in particular, a key piece of the male wardrobe. She imagined them in a dozen of different styles while jackets were unstructured with a big return of the three-button model with supple shoulders. There was also a strong influence from the 1990s, a decade that particularly inspires the British designer.
The collection was inspired on the one hand by Baudelaire’s “Fleurs du Mal” with a cursed poetic feel, illustrated by a trench coat worn topless with black trousers and a thin scarf tied around the neck, and on the other by streetwear fixed firmly in its time. The designer painted a picture of her vision of a man through 60 looks, some showcased by women.
“The Givenchy man is a mix of different styles, both dark and romantic with a touch of British aristocracy but at the same time with a modern attitude. Without forgetting the element of poetry. But he’s also an eclectic man and every silhouette has its own attitude,” said the designer as large, white balloons floating above the trees were tinged red and the music grew louder for what promised to be a long night of festivities.
With this memorable show, Pitti Uomo and Florence offered Givenchy a unique opportunity to bring its man to the fore before it returns to the Parisian runway calendar in January 2020. With its menswear, the brand is looking to project itself into the future, in particular by offering collaborations with other iconic brands.
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