Interviewed by AFP, Jean-Jacques Picart (consultant of LVMH) and Donald Potard, independent luxury consultant have openly exposed the already known but little publicized practices of major luxury fashion brands to ”bribe” or pay cash ”bakchich” important magazines such as VOGUE and ELLE for positive reviews of their collections.
In the two interviews, it is highlighted that VOGUE France’s editor in chief Ms Carine Roitfeld has recently been blacklisted by Balenciaga, one of the brands which refused to pay the cash for the reviews. Ms Roitfeld not only did not attend Balenciaga shows but has overtly criticized Balenciaga online in various blogs, in one of them saying ”it’s a pity, hopefully, Balenciaga will survive..” Mr Picard also adds that the practice dates from over 20 years ago and the ”policy” has been stimulated and grown by both brands and magazines at the same time.
Oliver Petcu of CPP Management Consultants Ltd believes the current crisis is likely to further expose other media ”divas” such as Anna Wintour who also have their ”favourites”. Vogue U.S.A’s editor in chief Anna Wintour has been under constant attack since mid 2009 for imposing a schedule for Milan fashion week according to her availability. The most recent fashion weeks in Milan took place over 3 days instead of 4 or 5 in order to please Ms Wintour. ”In the September Issue documentary, I found it ridiculous for a huge fashion brand such as Yves Saint Laurent to adjust its designs and collections according to Ms Wintour’s taste” says Mr Oliver Petcu.
The huge power accummulated by certain magazine editions such as VOGUE U.S.A. has also been built due to size and performance of the US luxury market, which is not the case any more. Thefore, international editions such as VOGUE Russia, VOGUE China and other international editions are likely to gain ground.
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