French luxury fashion label Paco Rabanne fashion label was relaunched by its owner, Puig Group, two and a half years ago and is now entering a new development phase.
“Now that we have established the product and given the brand a new identity, repositioning it in the current landscape, we can work on branding, to transform Paco Rabanne in a global name,” said Julien Dossena, who is crafting this rebirth.
After the designer was appointed Creative Director of the Puig group’s label in 2013, sales have quadrupled season-on-season, while its network of multi-brand stores has grown from 25 to the current number of 120-130, with nearly 70% of revenue being generated in the USA.
“The fashion label did not exist for years. Its renewed activity was driven by its fragrances, which were still living on very strongly. It was like writing on a blank page,” said the young designer, speaking at this year’s Hyères (France) International Festival of Fashion and Photography, where he acted as chairman of the fashion jury.
The first Paco Rabanne store was opened in Paris in January, at a 60 m² premises located in Rue Cambon. In its wake, the brand launched the first ready-to-wear advertising campaign and an e-commerce website. “Choosing Paris was important, to establish Paco Rabanne as a luxury brand. The location too was a crucial element. The store needed to do good business right from the start,” said Julien Dossena.
The label is now aiming for a second store in London and another one in Los Angeles. The creative director is also working on Paco Rabanne’s graphic design, in order to have a common image in fragrances and ready-to-wear apparel, whose customers are still very different.
“The process will require more than two years since, in order to fashion a new aesthetic, we will begin from a series of new products by developing new fragrances,” said Julien Dossena.
Over the seasons, the designer has built up an accessible wardrobe, blending sportswear and tailored outfits, featuring a contemporary version of the Paco Rabanne spirit. “I’m trying to put across the concept of Paco Rabanne as innovative and high-tech, by using metallic materials and playing with modularity, though with a more sportswear, easy to wear approach,” he emphasized.
The collection has expanded rapidly: today it consists of around 150 items, with in addition an accessories line which represents 40% of total sales.