Third-party sellers on Walmart‘s website recently listed some new handbag styles and social media users were quick to point out the bags looked quite similar to the famous Hermès handbag. They had the same handles, the same style of buckle on the front and the same shape as the Birkin — a handbag, which, as the New York Times points out, has become a “globally recognized emblem of status and wealth.”
The difference? Walmart’s bags sold for about $80 US. Word quickly spread over the holiday season, and the bags caused a frenzy online, where people referred to them as the Wirkin or the Walmès (short for the Walmart or working class Birkin, or the Walmart Hermès). The original Wirkin is made by Kamugo and is listed as the “KAMUGO Genuine Leather Handbags Purse for Women.” Others note that the bag is a way into the largely inaccessible luxury goods sphere.
As Forbes notes, unlike a lot of luxury brand dupes — short for duplicates — the bag sold at Walmart isn’t marketed to deceive buyers. The word “Birkin” didn’t appear on the Walmart website, except in some online customer reviews. Interestingly, on the Canadian Walmart website, it’s called a “Birkin-style bag.”
Dupe culture has faced criticism for fuelling over-consumption and fast fashion, which can come at a cost for the environment and for the workers making the clothing. Legal experts have pointed out that unlike counterfeit goods, dupes exist in a legal grey area by focusing on aesthetic similarity instead of branding, and thus most companies manage to avoid intellectual property infringement.
“This distinction allows dupes to capitalize on the popularity and design elements of well-known products while offering consumers a more affordable alternative,” explained the Fashion and Law Journal. While some online have wondered whether Hermès will go after Walmart and third-party vendors for infringement, so far, the company has not spoken about the so-called Wirkin.
But that doesn’t mean it won’t, explains intellectual property lawyer Shermin Lahka. “Hermès has been known to take an aggressive approach to trademark infringement, and courts have historically been in favour of Hermès,” she said. As the Fashion Law website points out, Hermès holds various trademark registrations for its Birkin bag, including for its distinctive shape.
In 2022, the Italian Supreme Court ruled in favour of Hermès, essentially protecting its trademark shape from unauthorized copies. And in 2012, the company was awarded $100 million US in damages after suing websites selling fake versions of its goods.
While many online are celebrating an affordable alternative to the Birkin, others aren’t so happy about a potential watering-down of the luxury brand, and are concerned that it may result in the bag no longer being considered a status symbol.
As longtime Hermès collector Angelique Chamberlain recently told Forbes, there’s an entire culture and process of buying an Hermès bag. To maintain exclusivity and demand, the brand uses a quota system for certain styles, including the Birkin, Kelly, and sometimes Constance bags, where no one is allowed to buy more than two quota bags per year.
“For the most part, you can’t walk in and buy a quota bag,” said Chamberlain. “You work with your Hermès sales associate to pick out your bag’s leather, hardware, colour and style.” She noted that it isn’t just about how much a person spends, but about their love and appreciation for the fashion house. Others say this is exactly why they love the Wirkin — because it has made a very elite space accessible.
In 2018, a luxury Hermès handbag shattered the world auction record in Hong Kong, fetching an eye-popping $380,000 US, according to auction house Christie’s. The handbag was produced in 2014 and had 18 karat gold buckles and strap loops encrusted with 205 diamonds.
Wirkin bags are sold out online, and though the Walmart website listing no longer even exists, customer reviews call it “the perfect Birkin dupe.” While a version could be found on Amazon, it’s now listed as out of stock, too. Walmart Canada’s website does appear to sell something similar for $167.99 through a third-party seller.
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