In the first minutes, as the show began to the melodies of Nascent Love, performed by French singer Sebastien Tellier, the label unveiled a new jewel-toned colour palette inspired by Silk Road treasures: saffron, magenta, powder blue, gold and ruby, in addition to its familiar pastel shades.
The Ulyana Sergeenko woman was not just an aristocrat this season, but also an elegant traveler adventuring to the famous trade city: the cast trod the glittering runway garbed in fluid silk and satin harem pants; robes and capes with Krestetskaya stitching; dresses in lurex, taffeta and organza; national Uzbek robes with traditional ikat patterns; broad-shouldered blouses with lantern sleeves; printed jacquard dresses and marabou feather skirts – exactly the assortment one might expect to peruse in sumptuous oriental bazaar.
Many of the vibrant and luxurious looks featured embroidery and crochet elements, the designer having looked to complex traditional handicrafts for her collection this season. But at the same time, the label’s typically feminine style was still recognisable: lavish fabrics and dainty waistlines paired with full skirts.
In attendance at the only show by a Russian fashion house in the official schedule was a roster of high profile guests including long time fan and customer supermodel Natalia Vodianova (wife of Antoine Arnault, CEO Berluti, Loro Piana, Berluti); TV host Evelina Khromtchenko; designer Vika Gazinskaya; photographer Ellen von Unwerth and fashion critic Suzy Menkes.
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