Breitling CEO Georges Kern ‘luxury in the traditional sense will cease to exist’

Since taking over the helm at Breitling, Georges Kern has been riding opposite ways, often breaking traditional barriers of luxury watchmaking. Beyond branding and marketing communication which he masters, he is taking innovative approaches to product development and retail too.

Recently, during a Breitling event, Kern has addressed a key theme – how we will consume in the future and the role that luxury will play. According to Kern, luxury in the traditional sense will cease to exist – and Breitling wants to offer a cool new alternative.

Despite the unprecedented ongoing pandemic crisis with a global reach, Breitling has had a relatively stable performance, especially in mature markets such as Germany, France, Italy, Japan and the USA. Emerging markets such as China still generate a smaller income.

Kern insists that shopping tourism will gradually disappear (it has already been diminishing). Purchasing locally will allow the development of products which can appeal to each individual market. In other words, Breitling should not become a brand tailored entirely to the taste of its Asian consumers. With this in mind, Kern wisely wants to focus on Breitling’s products achieving a global appeal, rather than focusing solely on the Chinese market.

The current worldwide crisis has also exposed how sensitively each market responds to cutting off its supply chains. Breitling, for one, tries to ensure sufficient supply for local markets as much as possible, helping countries to operate self-sufficiently.

According to Kern, it is not only about how consumption is changing, but also how luxury is being defined. In his opinion, the traditional term of luxury will fade, as will the sense of privilege that comes with wearing the product of a certain brand.

Today, things are increasingly challenging for brands and they must be in constant communication with their clients. Kern believes that the days of flashy, flamboyant and show-off manners are gone – whether it is displaying mink fur coat or ostentatiously sipping on a Crystal champagne at a golf tournament are over. Rather, younger generations of today tend to prioritise sustainability, nutrition, sports and authenticity.

The brand’s DNA values not only need to be comprehensibly presented but also explicitly demonstrated. Georges Kern has fully understood and responded to this new mindset, and strongly believes in this brand strategy. In 2018, Breitling teamed up with Ocean Conservancy, an organization that has fought against plastic pollution in oceans for over 30 years, organizing big rubbish collecting events.

Only recently, Breitling presented a cooperation with sustainable fashion brand Outerknown, that specializes in producing recycled function fabrics from nylon waste – often caused by lost fishing nets. From this recycled waste, Breitling now produces NATO-straps from ECONYL-yarn.

Kern has also overturned the ‘traditional’ brand ambassador approach. He has gathered an impressive line-up of top global celebrities as part of a ‘Squad’ as he defines it. Kern gathers testimonials from his ‘Squad’ and ensures their genuine relationship with the brand. For example, Brad Pitt is not only part of the new Breitling Cinema Squad, but also a pretty relaxed guy, according to Kern.

Luxury has not only become more democratic and conscious, but also much more relaxed in its style – casual and cool – and less formal. Both Brad Pitt and surfer Kelly slater are the perfect reflection of this effortless luxury.

Breitling has also revolutionised the retail design of luxury watch brand stores. Predominantly laid down, the new spaces which are relaxed and casual, not only in the way watches are displayed but also the casual feel of a bar, more like a pub – a bike on display, a working bar, Western style leather couches, a billiard table, soft lighting and a very carefully selected music playlist.

Kern expects  luxury will drastically change and so will be how relevant each brand will be able to remain. That is why, he insists, Breitling, is ready to provide a stylish, laidback alternative to the ever-traditional luxury.

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