MB&F has partnered with BVLGARI to unveil the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti, a new take on the Italian jeweller’s iconic Bulgari creation. Available in three separate limited editions of 33 pieces each in titanium, rose gold, and steel (pictured above, left to right), the Serpenti takes on the provocative form of a serpent’s head, with the time read via rotating domes inside the creature’s “eyes”.
The intrigue of this Serpenti is centered on its case, which is understandably complex to create, given its flowing, organic shape and the need for enough precision to seal all five oddly shaped sapphire crystals well enough to earn a 30 m water resistance rating. With hinged lugs front and rear, the Serpenti will likely wear well on most wrists, despite its 18 mm thickness and 53 mm case length.
The Serpenti is brought to life by a bespoke movement born from the HM10 Bulldog. Like its predecessor, the time is read via the “eyes” which are comprised of paper-thin aluminium domes; hours are ready through the beast’s right eye, the minutes via its left. For the wearer, this creates an intuitive left-to-right reading of the time. The movement also offers a power reserve indicator, read via its case back.
It’s always difficult to objectively assess the value of watches like the Serpenti, since they are quite unlike anything else. That said, at US$148,000 in steel or titanium and US$170,000 in rose gold, the Serpenti is priced on the high side compared to other MB&F models, even those which offer additional complications.
MB&F has been mastering collaborations for many years, having worked repeatedly with brands like H. Moser & Cie., designers like Alain Silberstein, and artisans like Eddy Jaquet, among others. This is the second collaboration with BVLGARI, the first being the Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra in 2021.
The reimagining of the Serpenti concept, focusing on the serpent’s head and eyes, is a perfect fit for MB&F’s aesthetic and know-how when it comes to complex case forms with numerous shaped sapphire crystals. The collaboration is also a sign of MB&F’s continued independence.
Despite having sold a minority stake in the business to CHANEL last year, MB&F is proving that it can still partner with brands owned by LVMH, a major rival to Chanel in numerous luxury categories. Interestingly, this is not the first time that MB&F has collaborated with an LVMH brand, having previously collaborated with clockmaker L’Epee numerous times.
adapted from SJX Watches
Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti
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