Riccardo Tisci’s highly over-rated debut at Burberry

To make sure that attendees did not miss the brand pattern change, a scarf was left on each chair. Tisci’s collection opened with ladylike pretentious chiffon dresses and jackets and ended the show with punk rock chicks reflecting his collaboration with Vivienne Westwood – to add a dash of street cred.Tisci’s collection include some predictable Burberry x Bailey (Christopher Bailey) signature looks with an Italian twist. Some stand-out pieces included an intriguingly cut trench-coat-dress with lots of straps and buckles. His accessories included some snakeskin high heels with tiny lockets halfway down each heel and a new bag with the B insignia. Logomania is definitely back!

“It’s nice to be back! I showed my debut student collection here in London, though this is something a little larger,” joked Tisci, wearing a black T-shirt with yet another new logo, an interlocking T and B. “I have always loved London, and I love living here again. I am inspired every day by London and its eclectic diversity. And, every time I go into the archives of this house I find something more beautiful inside Burberry. It’s amazing!” added Tisci, who entitled the show “Kingdom”.

Some of the fashion critics have identified many elements close to his designs for Givenchy (his previous employer) including the finale evening dresses and the men’s tailoring, Many have expected a much more dramatic re-interpretation of the Burberry codes, while the larger than usual number of looks made the show lose momentum towards the end.